I need some mechanical advice.

I have had two blow outs this week on my GF SS.  Both times it is the stem separating from the tube.  From your experience is this a wheel issue?  Under inflated tires?  I have been riding the bike for months with no issues and now two in one week.

Also, what would it take to convert to a ghetto tubless system.

Thanks,

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10 thoughts on “I need some mechanical advice.

  1. Do you keep the little nuts on the valve stem? If so, remove them! They don’t allow the stem to move with the tube as those big tires flex, slowly tearing off the valve stem. It plagued our lunch crew several years ago when we started running bigger tires. Lost the nuts, stopped the flats.

  2. A ghetto Tubeless system…. I just googled that. It looks like you take a BMX tube and slice it to make a rim strip for your mountain bike wheel, then get some sealant, like Stans and put it in there. I think it can be done, but what a time consuming process. I think you would have to be very accurate on your slicing of the BMX tube and that could take alot of time. I would just get a kit. I think pricepoint sells a stans kit for $60.00.

  3. I have been running Stans on both my bike and my wife’s bike for many years now. As long as you don’t let the sealant dry up, plan on wearing out tires without any flats! We do the endurance thing (Leadville, E100, 24 hours, etc.) and have yet to have flatted during any of those events. During Leadville, I pinched between a large rock and was amazed how quickly it sealed itself. I heard it hiss, then looked down and saw it seal up almost as fast as it pinched.
    Keep your tires with the liquid in it, and watch it do it’s thing.

  4. I also have “The Injector” thats like a syringe for the no-tubes sealant. I put an ounce and a half of sealant in every 3 months. The Injector keeps it all mess free and I use it to pump slime in my kids tires and the wheelbarrow. Mandatory because of all the goatheads in my back yard. Plus, the difference in the ride because I can run 32/28 psi is totally rad. It pays for itself after a couple years of tube savings.

  5. Thanks for the info everyone.

    Moser – I’ll get rid of the nuts first. Just noticed that only that bike has them. Makes me glad I wasn’t riding that one down Ash when we did the loop. A blow out on Jack Rabbit was bad enough.

    Potter – You mention checking for rim compatibility. Is there a tire check as well?

  6. I’m still using the old Yes-Tubes system. About $2 per tube if bought in bulk online. Typically I only use latex, injectors, and syringes in the bedroom.

  7. I believe tire compatibility is only required with Stan’s rims. You should be able to use any tire you want, though I would lean towards a tight fitting rubber.

  8. Also, I know the allure of on-line shopping can be intoxicating, but give our wonderful LBS’s a chance before ordering. Keep it local. They’re not only local business owners and cyclists, they’re also our friends.

  9. Make sure your tire pump doesn’t cling too tightly to the valve stem when you are finished pumping up. If you are pulling too hard, you will pull the stem from the tube enough where it will cause flats. I’m not sure about the nuts’ opinion about Jeff, er, Jeff’s opinion about nuts, but it’s plausible if you make them too tight. Too-tight nuts are never any good…

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